I recently picked up a copy of Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook, and I have to say that it's an instant classic. Yes, I know, it's been out for a while, but it's new to me. For those of you unfamiliar with Bourdain, he's an author, chef, and sometime TV host (check out No Reservations on the Travel Channel-great show). Les Halles, the New York City-based restaurant where he serves as executive chef, specializes in traditional French bistro food. Here, Bourdain covers everything from the "classics" (coq au vin, escargot noix), to recipes calling for kidneys and hearts.
This isn't a book for everyone, though. A pretty fair number of the dishes, while simple to make, require ingredients that definitely can't be bought at your average supermarket. Many will require a trip to the butcher shop, or an order from one of the suppliers listed in the back. And for anyone who gets a bit uncomfortable when encountering some casual profanity, this one isn't for you. I'd never seen pearl onions referred to as "little f---ers" before now. For that matter, I'd never seen an equipment list calling for a "novelty apron or vintage Ted Nugent t-shirt" while preparing cote de boeuf. Swearing and joking, aside, the food is excellent. I've only had the opportunity to try a couple dishes so far, but I found them both suprisingly easy to make (i.e. filet of beef with sauce porto and roasted shallots) and packed with lots of flavor (les halles' onion soup). Hardcore Bourdain fans and foodies alike should love this one. I highly recommend it.
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